One Pencil, Two Blue Pens, and One Red Pen

I just realized that my last post failed to upload to the page. The access to the internet here is not too reliable at all, but I am grateful for any connection at all. I have been keeping a detailed journal, and writing in there will take priority over my blog. Of course, I need to share my experiences and what I have learned. To keep all this to myself would defeat the purpose of my trip.

I have failed to explain to many the purpose of my time in Tanzania this summer. If I did give you an explanation before I left for East Africa, please forgive me because it was totally wrong. I am still struggling to discover my real role here at St. Brendan’s parish.

I am participating in what is called the International Summer Service Learning Program (ISSLP) through the Center for Social Concerns at the University of Notre Dame. My heartfelt gratitude goes to all who help me prepare and fund my time abroad. Many have donated money, time, energy, and knowledge to make this trip possible. Now for a quick description of my ISSLP and the happenings of my 1st week in Tanzania.

INTERNATIONAL:

I am living on the grounds of St. Brendan’s Parish in Kitete, Tanzania. It is as rural as you could imagine. There are no roads- only dirt and rocky trails that lead from village to village. (Believe me when I say that even calling these roads “rough paths” is very generous. I almost lost my lunch the other day because of the violently bumpy ride. And I thought Michigan had bad roads!) We are surrounded by corn and wheat fields, and it is very common to have to stop to let herds of goats and cattle pass in front of us. Kitete is located high above the edge of the Great Rift Valley. After the clouds pass in the morning, the view from the front yard is amazing. We are approximately 2000 Km above sea level overlooking Lake Manyara. To the north of us is the Ngorongoro crater. It has become a refuge for the wildlife, and it contains the densest population of lions in the world. Fortunately, lions can’t make it up to where we live, but we have been told to keep a watch for the elephants and hyenas. Just the other night we could hear the hyenas laughing in the forest behind us. On a very clear day, the peak of Mt. Kilimanjaro can be seen to the northeast. It hasn’t been that clear yet, though!

Fr. Cyprian, one of the Holy Cross priests living here at the parish took me and my site partner Charlie to the Manyara National Park, located within the Valley on Monday. We were allowed to drive through with our own vehicle (a Landcruiser) to see the animals in their natural habitat. I finally got to see my first herd of elephants. I couldn’t believe how close we could drive and park the vehicle near them to watch them feed. We also saw many giraffes (my favorite to watch), zebras, hippos, blue monkeys, velvet monkeys, impalas, warthogs, and baboons. We literally saw hundreds of baboons.

By the way, you probably would have a hard time finding Kitete on any map. The closest city is Arusha. We are just northwest of there.

SUMMER:

Summer? Not really. The weather here has been very nice over the last week, but it won’t last for too long. Being south of the equator, the months of June and July will be the coldest here. It already gets pretty chilly in the evenings, and the sun sets before 7:00pm. The mornings are also usually cool and cloudy. The sun shines bright and warm in the afternoons- and the more sun the better! Clear skies during the day means a warm shower in the evening. It was cloudy for most of the day Friday, so I had to boil a pot of water for bathing last night. Learning to use the warm water (when it is available) didn’t come easy for me. My first shower here was refreshing, to say the least.

When necessary, we use generators for light and power. We rely mostly on solar power, so again, the more sun the better. We never know when the generators will run dry in the evenings. There usually is no warning, and when the lights go out, I can’t even see my hand in front of my face. This provides for some sweet stargazing at night, but I would hate to get caught in the choo (toilet) without my flashlight! The solar cells will kick in after the generators quit. The nights are quiet once the hum of the motors die- except for those hyenas.

My first week here has been spent making friends with the Holy Cross priests and the students who attend the Veldman Technical School, which is located on the grounds of the church. The mornings start early. Mass in celebrated at 7:30am followed by the usual breakfast of uji, a corn-based porridge. Mass is said in Swahili, and I have working to learn the responses. I almost know all of the Baba Yetu (Our Father), and I am quickly picking up other parts of the Mass. Many of the students and villagers acted surprised when I greeted them with “amani ya Kristu” during the sign of peace. They appreciate that I have taken interest in learning some basic Swahili.

SERVICE:

I have come to Kitete to teach the students in the Technical School. However, I have quickly learned that that is not my most important ministry here. Primarily, I am here to simply “be” with the students. I have not even been in the classroom yet, but I have spent much time with the students in the afternoons after they finish with class. Volleyball is played every evening, and I was quickly invited to join in on the fun. (The hospitality has been overwhelming. Everyone is very welcoming and offers a hand to shake.)

Charlie and I finally met with the other teachers Friday afternoon to set up our schedule for the next three weeks. The school is primarily a vocational school for students who could not pass the national tests to move on to secondary school. Boys learn carpentry and masonry skills. The girls are taught how to tailor, weave, and knit. Charlie and I were basically given the freedom to plan what will be taught from now until the students’ holiday at the end of June. We will be teaching English, computer skills, and mathematics. Starting on Monday morning at 8:00am, I will be teaching two classes totally 4.5 hours of instruction each day. I am basically entering these classes blind. We have been given little or no information about where the students are in each course. The struggle for the first week will be assessing what the students already know so that we can begin new material. Resources are few. I have been given a couple instruction manuals, a few short story books (there aren’t enough books for each student), one notebook, one pencil, two blue pens, and one red pen. The task ahead is daunting, but I have always wanted to play teacher.

I realized quickly that I am here to make friends and share time with the priests of Holy Cross. They definitely enjoy the company. Because I wasn’t in the classroom last week, I spent many days traveling with Fr. Cyprian to outpost churches around the diocese. Most times we arrive late, but the parishioners are very faithful and patient, waiting for Father to come. I have celebrated Mass with Fr. Cyprian (who, by the way, is deadly on the volleyball field) under tents and in simple mud huts. I am always given a seat among the elders, and after Mass I am invited to share a meal with the locals. I have quickly learned that I will not be going hungry here. Meals after Mass usually consist of rice, beans, chicken, and pop. Surprisingly, Coke, Sprite, and Orange Fanta are not in short supply out here.

I am sure Fr. Cyprian and Fr. Comfort enjoy our presence around the house. We join them for evening prayer most days, and we share long conversations over every meal. They love to talk about the States and Notre Dame. They know many priests from Notre Dame, so we found that we have much in common from the start. There is also a Holy Cross Brother visiting the parish. His name is Nicholas Arthur, and he is studying at Tangaza College in Nairobi. The other night Charlie and I introduced him to Notre Dame football…we watched Rudy. Yes, there is a TV, VCR, DVD player, and when the dish is working, the priests get satellite television (they love their soccer matches). We may be in the middle of nowhere, but this isn’t the stone age. Even cell phones are everywhere.

LEARNING:

Overall, I will only spend 15-18 days in the classroom. Therefore, learning will probably be the most important part of my ISSLP. First of all, I need to justify the three credits of Theology that I am earning. Most importantly, I need to take away something from this place and these amazing people to share with friends, family, and classmates back home. My goal is to create a relationship between the parish and school and my brothers back in Keough Hall on campus. My dorm has sponsored my immersion, and the hall plans on sending one resident to Kitete each summer. I know it’s not the case, but I have told myself that every ‘Roo in the hall has high expectations from me.

I have been given assigned readings to complete while I am here, but my learning will go far beyond that. I will be asking many questions while I am here. Observe, then ask- that’s my lesson plan. I have already begun, and I will faithfully record my questions, observations, and hopefully some answers in my journal. To believe that I will change the world in eight weeks is foolish, and I am too aware of that. I don’t even know if what I offer in the classroom will be of any help at all. I sure hope so and will work hard to make sure it does. What I do after I leave Kitete will determine if my nine weeks here meant anything to me. The relationships I create and maintain, and the knowledge I pass on months and years from now will be the measure of success. In only a week and a few days, a tie with the people (and struggles) of East Africa has already been created. How long can this connection continue? If I simply wipe the dirt from my shoes as I board the plane home, taking only a few souvenirs, pictures, and a (selfish?) feeling of doing some good, then I should have stayed home this summer.

I only need to observe and ask questions…

Why do the students have such an unvaried and unbalanced diet? I have seen them only eat ugali (corn flour and water) and beans. On Sundays they get rice with their beans.

The students are considered as failures or dropouts to their peers who go on to secondary school. What does this do to their self esteem and motivation?

Twelve boys are packed into two little rooms. There is only room for the bunks- no closets, desks, chairs. Can the school board more students? How many students would benefit from living on campus if additional housing was available?

I, the teacher, get only 3 pens and 1 pencil. What do the students need? Supplies? Books?

The students bond through sports in the afternoons. No video games, iPods, or movie theaters for them. Would improved athletic grounds and equipment be appreciated? Fr. Comfort has already mentioned interest in constructing a sports pavilion for tennis, volleyball, and basketball.

Lastly, why do I eat (a varied and balanced) dinner with only 3 or 4 others every night when the table seats 10 easily?

If you made it this far, congratulations. If you have any questions or comments, email me or leave them here on the blog. Blessings to you. Please keep me, Charlie, and the families of Kitete in your thoughts and prayers.

(By the way...I don't plan on ever using the red pen.)